Day 15

Last day. We're all looking a bit wrecked this morning. After breakfast we spend a bit of time organising the bags. Then Liz wants to pick up a statue she saw so we venture out into the street one last time. The girls stay behind. We find the store pretty easily and then walk back to the hotel. 

On the way back we see a motorbike accident. A bike hits a car quite slowly and kind of topples over with two passengers on it. I won't go into it here but it looks worse than it should be a large crowd swarms around the accident. And because of the amount of traffic there is suddenly a big crowd with lots of beeping and honking and shouted. We move Remi away from there quickly because it looks like a state of confusion. I can't imagine how an ambulance would even be able to get near.

It's boiling hot so we get back to the hotel, shower and for the first time in 2 weeks I put on long pants. Now I feel like a grown up again.

We take our bags down to the lobby and wait for our driver. 

We get to the airport with plenty of time to spare but then it all kind of moves slowly as we try and work out how thier queues work. But we eventually get on the plane to fly domestic to Saigon. We sit next to a Vietnamese girl who is moving to Melbourne to study at Monash. She appears upset at first because she is moving to another country and leaving all her friends. Her English name is Jenny and she laughs when we attempt her real name. She's very friendly and talkative and she gets on well with Melody. She is 17. They even organise a catch up in the city during the holidays. And she's coming over to our house to cook us Vietnamese food. Very confident. I try to imagine Melody moving to another country to study and I can't. Or even imagine going up to Sydney to study and staying with her aunty there and I just can't see it. 

Changes planes at Saigon and the queues are slow because they are having internet problems. A recurring theme at airports these holidays. We get through customs and get to our gate to wait. We buy some water from the kiosk. Sit them down then I decide to have a beer. When I go back I'm told that they are no longer serving liquid to people going to Australia. Not even water. I figure it might be because I'd be drink in the waiting area. So I try the little coffee place there. There's people drinking there. But no, they cannot serve me beer or water. They're very apologetic but security as told them no. When we came to gate they were checking bags one last time. I guess they were checking for liquids. Heaven knows why and I can't be bothered googling it.

The trip back home leaves late and arrives early morning. Sleep doesn't really happen for any of us and Remi gets to use a sick bag. 

Customs is a breeze as we use the e-passports they have installed now. Strangely they only told us about them because I asked if I could stay with my family in line because I have a British passport. Through in 1 minute. I look over at the long lines at customs and wonder why they don't let everyone know.  

There were a lot of Vietnamese on the flight and those long lines mean the baggage carousel stays full for  along time. It takes a while for our last bag to come down as the sensor looks for spots. An enterprising guy to my right sorts the bags into a neater order so the bags keep coming. Then it comes. We leave the terminal. It's 6 degrees. Our bodies still carry the last remnants of the Hanoi heat as we head for home.

Day 14

Our last day in Vietnam. Well kind of. Tomorrow we're here in the morning.
The hotel we're staying at, La Siesta, as given us a map to follow which will take us to some of the interesting places. First we have breakfast there which is alright except for the coffee. The lack of good coffee here is killing us. But the pancakes were very tasty and the pastries were fresh.
Equip ourselves for a bit of a walk in what looks like sunshine. Not that we've seen too much of that over here. It's a blast of hot air as we hit the streets. Even at 9:30am.
We are basically walking the streets.Mainly because there is no room on the sidewalks because of the motorbikes. Crossing the road is a bit easier in Hanoi. You just keep walking and the bikes go round. Cars are a different story. Liz still looks a little nervous crossing the road.
We make our way to the big indoor market. 3 floors of almost the same stuff repeated. I see some shoes I like but as I approach the seller says my feet are too big and don't bother looking. The next door doesn't even give us an excuse but doesn't want to serve us. Nothing here for us really and it looks like I'm too big for any shoes so we leave and keep following the trail. Shops seem to be clustered as we pass a bunch of stationary shops then a bunch of toy shops. Interspersed with antique shops.
We come across a large church which looks very similar to the Notre Dame in Saigon. This seems to be the main shopping area and things look a lot better here. Streets are a little wider and quieter and french architecture is more prominent. We continue back to the lake then cross a bridge to the temple in the centre of the lake. The legend of the lake as got something to do with a large turtle and a sword. Remi thought he saw it in the water. The temple as a large statue of the turtle on display. It's a quiet retreat from the bustle of the city. We pick up some tickets to the water puppet show later this afternoon and pop back to the hotel to freshen up. And change clothes.

The water puppet show is a full house and very popular. It's not a puppet show we used to. It's more a combination of movement and music. The accompanying orchestra have an interesting sound that reminds me of some of Damon Alban's later efforts. The puppet dragons shooting fire after being under water was cool. As was a fox that ran up a tree. It was all in Vietnamese so I'm not if the stories were related.
Despite protestations from the kids we went back to New Day for more street food. Again great food. And very cheap. And a lot more atsmosphere than the non descript western places.
Tonight is the Night Market. The street we're on is closed and theirs traditional entertainment. The market is round the corner. and the place is buzzing. No motorbikes because of street closure so it's safe to walk. Stalls are pretty much the same thing again. But the city is alive and everyone is eating and drinking on the pavements.
Back at the hotel we find that a Vietnamese pop star is filming a music video out the front. The kids love and we stay to watch. Spiderman, Iron man and a Stormtrooper are in the video. Then a couple of girls down the street pull out a beat box and start dancing and twerking. Meanwhile the traditional singing is still going on down the end. The kids are having a great time watching all this so we let them stay out there while we grab a gin and tonic at the hotel. When we come back out the girls have been joined by a boy who then goes solo. The music video as moved down the street. We're leaving tomorrow and it's late so we call it a day.

Day 13

This morning we pack for Hanoi. Obviously because it is our last day here the sun is shining. Thank you Hoi An!  Doesn't take us long to pack and then it's just a case of waiting to go.
The driver picks us up and takes us to Dunang airport. When we came in it was night time so we didn't see much. But today we the Marble Mountains which look amazing. If we had known we could have visited them. The road to to Dunang is full of marble sculptures too. Dunang also has some amazing architecture. The sports centre as what looks like a spaceship for one of it's arenas. It's the mix of 21st technology and historical Vietnam that makes it such a fascinating country.

Get to the airport with plenty of time. Have a bite to eat and queue up at check in. The clock starts to get closer to boarding time and we don't move. We tell an official our plane is boarding but she says it will be alright. Panic starts to set in as we get nearer to take off. Finally they take us out the queue to another desk. As we checking in the official keeps bringing over people who are on the same plane as us that have to be rushed through because their plane is boarding. Finally get through (and strangely looking back the lines have all disappeared) but time is tight and as we get to the long line at security our plane is on last call for boarding. The line moves slowly and then Remi's bag is opened because he has a bullet he bought at the Chu Chu tunnels. A souvenir bullet. Make it to Gate 9 and I steam ahead like Goerge Constanzo, ignoring all other passengers when I see the last bus.  But we're on and we're off into the sky.
The other end at Hanoi airport was amazing. Walk off the plane and there's our cases on the carousel. So we're out of there in 5 minutes. Hanoi is hot. Sun is blaring.
We get to the La Siesta Hotel mid afternoon and the staff are again lovely. We're right in the middle of the Old Quarter and near the lake. So we quickly freshen up and go for an explore. Hanoi is quite different to Ho Chi Minh City but the motorbikes here are still pretty wild. The French managed to build wide roads and roundabouts here when they were in charge. The wide roads are just so hard to cross when there is a 100 bikes and cars heading towards you. Sometimes you just walk into the traffic. Usually the bikes will go round you.

The lake is beautiful and there are crowds of people both tourists and locals just sitting and chatting or strolling. The noise of the traffic is a bit much but if you can ignore that then it is quite serene. We getting hungry so we end up at a Highland Cafe for a beer and some fries and milk shakes for the kids. I have another Vietnamese pork baguette. They are delicious. Then it's time for a chill out before dinner.
Dinner tonight is at the New day restaurant. To get to out seats we had to move through a labyrinth of steep stairs and also walk through the kitchen which looked amazing. And the food was amazing too. beef and chicken curries with rice and spring rolls.Pushed up against each other in a small crowded area with Vietnamese locals. A great experience.
We get the kids home and Liz and I go out for a nightcap. A couple of Mojhitas at the Nola Bar across the street. Again a trek through steep stairs until we're up on the rooftop. The drinks are a bit heavy on the mint. Like a jungle in there. But it's good to be just us two. Really should of done it sooner.
Then it's good night.

Day 12

We leave for Hanoi tomorrow so this is basically our last day in Hoi An. But we spend the morning really not doing much. Liz as got a bit of a sore throat probably caused by the air conditioning. Everyone is little weary. We are always on the move here. Walking or riding. Breakfast time we notice that the Resort is almost empty. At one stage we're the only people in the breakfast room. and there is so much food.

We don't really do anything until lunchtime when we head into town. We grab some baguettes from the place we went to the other day. No half hour wait today. I had the pork baguette and it's fantastic. We eat as we walk then drop into a coffee shop to get some real coffee.  It's so hot in there I feel dizzy but a quick walk outside puts me right. We eventually end up in the ancient town. Or maybe it's the really ancient town. Built by Japanese traders hundreds of years ago. Pick up a few souvenirs and get a little guided tour round a 17th century house. The tour guide is lovely and we sit have a chat over cups of tea. at one point my glasses fall apart which is just brilliant. I'm going to have to put them together with sticky tape until we get back to Melbourne. Oh brilliant.We also need another bag for stuff we've bought.
We plan to go home for a swim but flop out on the beds and just chill. Sometimes holidays can just take it out of you.
After dark we travel back into town for our final dinner in Hoi An. The kids would like to go back to Alfonzo for some more pizza which at least we know will fill them up. We do like the American style pizzas. And we know Remi will eat them. I don't think he's eaten all day. So we buy plenty of pepperoni pizza for him.
Walk slowly back through the town stopping to barter over a new suitcase.  Back on the shuttle and our last night in Hoi An is over.

Day 11

Aster breakfast we have an appointment with the security manager to go down to the Police Station and report the missing IPhone. Checking out Melody's raincoat from yesterday it kind of looks like it may have been stolen. Probably on the bridge. When we get to the police station there is a young guy sitting there who lost his camera on the bridge. He had 3 months of his Asian adventure on it and he looks pretty sad. Our security guy helps him a little but he has to go back to the hotel and get his statement translated. He pleadling asks the officer if they have the camera. They don't.
It's all a bit surreal when it's our turn. The police are not friendly, they don't speak English and our security guy's English isn't that great. Plus the room we are in as bars on the windows. There's lots of things going on and a senior officer comes in and asks if Mel as "Find My Phone" which she doesn't. Nor any link to iCloud. Then poor Mel can't remember her number We haven't got our phones either. We are there for quite a while and things go on around us. 3 officers seem to be involved but we haven't really got any idea what's going on.
Finally we get a stamped report and we leave, very now and then I call her phone through the day but no answer.

We borrow some bikes and ride to the beach. The hotel as a private beach so we go there. It's overcast but warm and the water and the view is great. Hawkers on the sand are relentless though. They won't stop coming over to try and sell us things. The only way is to walk past them into the water.
After a bit of a splash we set off for a bite to eat. We have to give the towels we borrowed before we leave. Since the private beach is in front of a restaurant they give Liz a hard time about using their towels and not eating anything. The hotel must have a deal with them. We go looking for a baguette place we heard about but walk so long we give up and drop in a sandwich place and have a burger and fries.
We pass some pretty rich resorts on the way back. We spend a lot more time in the water. Well are except Mel. When we come out I ask for more towels. Only one a day they say. Liz ain't too pleased as see gets dressed wet. However after Liz and I are ready a guy from the restaurant comes and gives us towels for Ruby and Remi.

We ride back past rice fields to our hotel. We had one scary part where a motorbike rider just missed knocking over Remi. But he's alright. His bike doesn't have brakes either.
After putting our bikes away Ruby and Remi go out to the street to buy some snacks. By themselves. They go to a little shack around the corner. They thinks it's scary but return with a stash of goodies.
Get ourselves showered and changed and catch the shuttle into town. We're off to eat at Morning Glory. It's packed but we get a seat and get a mix of Pho and Chicken Curry Soup and Vegetable Curry Soup. The food tastes fantastic. The atmosphere is great and we fill up with Vietnamese street food.
Then we go for dessert across the bridge where the kids can get 59 flavours of ice cream. They are not allowed the Mojhita or Baileys though. It's wonderful walking through the town. It's quite magical in the evening and rather than taking a photo that will not do it any justice I stand by the side of the river and just drink in it's beauty. Try to get the other to do it too with varied success. We pass lots of Japanese games going on. A strange traditional bingo. A pot smashing game. People being taught traditional songs.

Stroll though town and back to the shuttle. On the way I stop and get a bottle of Dulat Red Wine which is made in Vietnam. Back at the hotel we taste it and it's not bad. And after a couple it's really alright.

Day 10

Monday. Wake up early. Can't seem to sleep past 6 am. Power is alright now so it;s nice and peaceful except a couple of dogs that go off every now and again. I use the time before everyone wakes up to write my blogs.

After breakfast, we go to reception to borrow some bikes so we can all ride into town. Ruby keeps pestering me to let her ride a motorbike. No chance. It's raining so we go to a little shack next door and buy ponchos. All one size so mine is terribly small and Remi's is very big. But we're ready to face the elements. Ride all the way to the other side of Hoi An and reach the main river. Then Melody notices that her bag is not on her shoulder any more. She's quite upset because it as her phone in it. The new iPhone she got for Christmas. We jump back on our backs and try to retrace our steps. But no sign. We don't know if it dropped off or was stolen. It's a mystery.
We go for lunch at the Morning Glory. Despite the dark clouds of Mel's loss over us we manage to enjoy some beautiful Vietnamese street food. We will definitely go back for more. The rain as cleared up as we ride back to the hotel. We did quite a bit of riding so the rest of the afternoon is for relaxing. Mel is using my iPad to let friends know her bad news. Ruby, Remi and I swim while Liz takes a nap.

After getting ourselves back together we head back into town for dinner. We catch a taxi which is very cheap. Tonight we eat at Good Morning Vietnam which is Italian.With this family we have to keep a balance between Asian and Western food. The pizzas are good and Liz and I get a shot at the end. The chef comes out and as a chat with us. He is Italian. Alfonzo. And he talks to us for a little while. Obviously it's not very busy.
From there we walk over the Hoi An bridge to the night market. Crossing the bridge Mel makes a wish by sending a candle down the river. I can guess what she wished for. Liz buys the girls some lanterns for their rooms. The lanterns in shops that line the road do look beautiful.
Then we walk up to the old Japanese Bridge and buy tickets into the the Ancient Town of Hoi An. The buildings are pretty amazing but the night market is here to mostly selling the same stuff over and over. But it's quite atmospheric to walk through.

We drift back to B Bs tailor shop where the shuttle back to the hotel will pick us up. Liz makes some plans with the shop to get a dress made. Then the bus comes and takes us back to the hotel. The girl at the desk informs us we will be given a ride to the police station in the morning to report our lost mobile. Earlier I had written an incident report and she had it translated into Vietnamese.
Fall asleep to Godzilla rampaging over New York.

Day 9

The hotel seems to be having some power problems at the moment and we are unfortunately situated close to the generator. So we wake up to that thing humming close to us, Mel's not feeling well, The rain is coming down softly. Usual holiday fare. We go off to breakfast. We keep passing all these men, women and children wearing ""We are a family" T-shirts.It's like some strange cult. Turns out it's a corporate thing. A company takes it's staff and family away to get to know each other. Beside the breakfast hall they're setting up a stage and chairs outside ready for some outdoor games.

After breakfast we want to go into town Mel can't make it so Remi volunteers to stay back here with her. He's  a little bit over it I think. So Liz, Ruby and I catch a taxi into town,. Lots of tailors here and the taxi driver takes us to is mate who as a shop here. We accept even though it;s not on our plan for today. Grab a card and go looking for an ATM. Maybe because it's Sunday they close some of them. I'm looking for a Commonwealth ATM but we end up settling on Western Union. The rain is really coming down now which is a pain. The power outage goes for all of Hoi An and shops are dark inside. If youre interested in something they hold their phones up for you. The main market is in darkness too, They're cooking away in the dark, Chopping meat in the dark. It's all kind of eerie.

By the river we see the real beauty of Hoi An. French colonial mixing into Japanese architecture.Lots of mini restaurants and cool bars. Plenty of tourists.Everyone looks wet. I buy a banana pancake off a street cart which is tasty but oily, We make our way back to the shuttle stop (which is a a tailor) where there are some people Ruby knows. The Mum and dad have been here 4 times and give us tips for our stay. The first one we take up is the baguettes from just round the corner. There is a bit of a line but it moves incredibly slowly as people buy 10 at a time. This shop is a bit famous and therefore very popular. Once we have the food we grab a taxi back to the hotel and proceed to have a picnic in our room. The baguettes are delicious.
Rest our weary bones for a while and Ruby and Remi go for a swim. Still raining mildly but beginning to clear up.
So I try to whip up enthusiasm for a bike ride into town. Liz stays back to look after Mel while the rest of ride into town. The landscape is flat so it's an easy ride and we reach the town as the sun goes down. Now the town looks amazing. Lots of tourists now.  Many from Japan especially as we get close to what is known as the Japanese bridge. The waterfront looks amazing and their are lanterns floating down the river. We cross the bridge and find a few little street markets. Too much to look at and I'd like the other here for all this so we head back to the hotel. We've established a few landmarks to guide us back to the hotel and it works. We don't get lost.
But it is late and Liz and a few concerned guests are at the gate waiting for us. Liz was getting worried.
Mel's not well enough to go into town so we eat at the bar here. "We are a Family" are having a Karaoke night in the restaurant. They're letting the kids do some songs too. One kid cracks me up with his quiet to loud song. And it's really loud. And I mean loud. But then the storm hits and that's loud too.
The storm and the karaoke finish at the same time and in the quiet we get chatting to a couple from Newcastle in the UK. Have a few more drinks and talk about the difference between the UK and Australia. It's almost always interesting talking to fellow travelers. Kids leave before us. We follow them a bit later and catch the end of the Avengers on HBO..